NYFW FW 2013//Snippets from Malandrino.

NYFW FW 2012// St. John

I was lucky enough to work with St. John this season—by far loveliest people in this industry I’ve met so far.  Maturity come with age, and for me St. John has hit the Golden Age of a design house.  There’s a certain confidence in the calm demeanor of an established house—no longer competing, but wholly dedicated to creating magnificent clothes for real people.  George Sharp even provided faux fur alternatives for the environmentally conscious fashionistas.  Trust me, they won’t even be able to tell the difference.  The faux chinchilla coat was the softest and most divine.

I never imagined myself in St. John garments before.  After a day in the showroom, feeling the handpicked fabrics and scanning racks of meticulously tailored jackets and pants, I envisioned myself strolling the city streets in wide legged trousers and slouchy cashmere sweaters.  There’s something timeless and luxurious about St. John, and in this season specifically, an effortless French attitude inspired by Loulou de la Falaise.  Mixed with some Old Hollywood glamour, sunglasses, long leather gloves, and fur, this collection is the classic definition of chic.

In the words of every model that came in to be fitted, “I feel so rich and expensive!”

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The show was stunning in every way.  The location was the key.  If you somehow swindle your way into the Ukrainian Institute, be prepared to be transported to another time in Europe.  Dark wooden staircases carved with flowers; twisted bronze chandeliers glowing warmly; and lush silk curtains cascading from every window.  The ladies sauntered down runway, the polished wood floor of the rez-de-chaussez, pant legs swinging, and coats draped around the shoulder.  Ultra romantic.

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Loulou would be the first in line for these pieces, no?

NYFW SS 2012// Marchesa

The last day of my Fashion Week frenzy was dedicated to Marchesa.  It was by far the most extravagant and stressful backstage experience.  The backstage area took up the entire Terrace Room and the show took place in the ornate Palm Court in the Plaza Hotel.  Dresses whisked into the venue a mere hour and a half before the show started.  Seamstresses sewed girls into glittering gowns made from hundreds of delicate beaded silver strands.  Glamourous for sure, any Disney princess would be jealous of these royalty worthy concoctions.

Rather than retell the boring details of wrangling wandering models and ironing random CEO’s shirt…I’d rather name drop.  Courtney Love, Camilla Belle, Michelle Trachtenberg, Selita Ebanks, Kelly Osbourne, and Rachel Zoe to name a few celebs that popped backstage after the show…and Marchesa went all out on casting models as well.  Karolina Kurkova, Charlotte Free, Karen Elson…

Marchesa’s first runway show was a big fucking deal.

I want to keep things short so here are some reasons why I think Marchesa was an all around success this season (besides the fairy tale gowns):

1. Clean, fresh dewy face.  A natural, no makeup look was the perfect choice to balance the delicate, but extravagant dresses and gowns.  Karen and Karolina have never looked more ethereal and beautiful.
2. Charlotte Free.  Pink haired goth model.  There will be a post later on about her.  Obsessed.
3. The slick ponytail with fishtail braiding detail is really modern and cool.  Again, a great simple balance to the intricately embroidered gowns.
4. Runway maze.  Yes, the girls waltzed through a maze of chairs, set up in a way that makes the show more intimate than any other show I’ve seen.  Plush carpet and enormous stained-glass lay light, the Palm Court of the Plaza Hotel is a dream.  Come on, Great Gatsby referenced this place?  Awesome.

Things I weren’t too crazy about?  Stick-on thongs and the 50 lb. evening clutches.  A little over the top.  Unless those clutches were enchanted with an Undetectable Extension Charm, there was no reason for it to be that heavy.  Oh and I wasn’t too crazy about the Louboutin wedges chosen for the collection.  A bit too clunky for the looks.  And drab.  I’m a strong advocate of a strong shoe, no matter what the outfit.  But that’s just me.

I’m not usually a big fan of their voluminous chiffon origami (there are a few numbers that still cling to that look), but this first runway show really revealed a devastatingly beautiful silhouette and technique.  The barely-there chiffon with web-like embroidering in all the right places, creates this intensely sensuous yet regal combination.  I know this collection was inspired in part by the sea reflected beautifully in the movement and iridescent richness of the materials, but really, the dresses exude the forbidden sexuality of virgin royalty.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my delayed update on my NYFW.  Can’t wait till the next season!  Hopefully, I’ll get to actually see watch one next time…

Backstage at Marchesa Spring/Summer 2012

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Some pretty princess dresses for that Oscar party you were invited to…

This is what Juliet wore when Romeo was serenading her below her balcony.  Definitely a run-through-your-castle look.

NYFW SS 2012// Zac Posen

It’s been a rough week…sleep deprivation, malnutrition/ bingeing, and unbelievably dry hands due to label sticking and photo printing.

I was working collection coordination all last week with the Zac Posen design team before his show on Saturday, September 11th.  Basically, I worked in a team of 3 to organize the Zac’s creative process: documenting all the looks, numbering looks and labeling models, making dress cards and look boards…the secretarial work of fashion.  Ennuyeux.

The lame stuff aside, I’m so glad that I had the opportunity to work with such a wonderful house.  Zac Posen is so far from the stereotypical diva-snob designer.  Laid back, sarcastic and witty, and really just plain nice, Zac made the studio feel like a friendly gathering of friends rather than a stuffy design space.  His 3 small dogs would rampant in the office and often take naps in front of models during fittings.  No finicky requests for catering, Zac had a intern get him an all American Big Mac with fries…his partner Christopher was equally down-to-earth (“coke tastes better from a can”) with a humor that has a little more bite (he’s French).  He can talk about anything from Demi Lovato to silk faille to puppy training.

Betty and Candy. Swarovski pearls.Tina Turner the poodle.

Long story short, I’m smitten with the duo behind Zac Posen.

I saw dresses come to life this week; gowns fitted by being pinned onto the model and suddenly fully formed two days later gliding down the runway.  Why yes, I’m now biased to yet another designer having worked for them.  An impeccably tailored line, fitted on each model to perfection.  Sure, the gowns are a manifestation of fantasies and an era of formal attire than no longer exists outside the world of the elite and awards ceremonies, but isn’t that what fashion is really about?  The designer’s purpose is capture his imagination through yards of chiffon draped dreamily on the human form.  So fairy tale princesses and sea nymphs float across the creamy marble terrace 30ft up in Avery Fisher Hall.  The cloudy dusk backdrop transitions as darkness descends toward the climax of the show. Epic.

I’m picking out a couple of my favorites from the collection.  Enjoy.

Classic old Hollywood glamour.

I’m getting married in this mermaid gown.  I don’t care that it’s seafoam green.
Or this one, I can’t choose.  Also, this needs to be in a sci-fi movie.
Betty Draper if she lived in Hollywood.

Bruna is just way to hot to not include.  You’re smokin’ Bruna.

Stay tuned!  Backstage photos at Marchesa and Rachel Roy presentation to come…